I needed a quick climb (short approach and close to Golden) to fill my Saturday morning. South Arapaho’s Skywalker Couloir is described as “simply one of the best couloir climbs in Colorado” by a recent guidebook. I knew it would be popular on a Saturday morning and I hemmed and hawed about whether or not the snow would freeze up nicely overnight for this climb, but in the end I decided to depart very early for this climb.
I found the trailhead with no problems (other than a cop following me for 10 miles through an area of unnaturally low speed limits) and a few other people were sorting gear while I took off up the trail. In a coincidence eerily similar to my ascent of the Dead Dog couloir, I caught a group of 3 and passed them on the way to the climb and then was the first person on the route.
The hike in was mostly clear of snow, and the little to traverse to the base of the peak was firm. I’d left the trailhead about 4:30 and within an hour I was strapping on my crampons and starting up the couloir.
The route gradually steepened as I progressed upwards and I switched from using French technique on the lower slopes to taking advantage of the footsteps left in the snow from prior climbers.
The snow was frozen solid and with the steps, the route was a breeze. The most direct exit to the couloir is called the “Princess Leia” exit, and some years it exceeds 65 degrees. I stopped and measured it at only 50 degrees this year – agreeing with what others had reported on some online forums.
While I probably didn’t need it, I got out my second ice tool for security (especially since I was climbing solo) and mostly used it in a dagger position, but also enjoyed swinging it into snow solid enough for the pick to bite securely.
After an hour of snow climbing I topped out of the couloir and removed my crampons. A short rock and dirt path led to the top of South Arapaho.
I had plenty of time to do the class 3 scramble along the ridge to North Arapaho – at 13,502 feet it is the tallest peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness.
By staying on the ridge crest as much as possible, the route has some optional class 4 and low class 5 climbing. Some trails drop down below the difficulties but I was enjoying the exposure as I looked down on the Arapaho Glacier.
The final section to the top consisted of a hard snow and ice gully. I probably could have climbed it without incident with just my ice axe, but again, since I was solo I decided to put on my crampons and be safe.
From the summit I had great views of the Indian Peaks Wilderness, several Front Range 14ers and the Gore Range.
Just as I was heading down another climber reached the top. Kyle and I stopped and chatted and traded contact information. We had some similar goals and skills. After parting I headed back on the ridge to South Arapaho and tried to stay on the crest of the ridge in all places – except where I found I’d have to down climb overhanging rock.
Back on South Arapaho I chatted with another climber and we tried to ID all the surrounding peaks. Our job wasn’t too hard, since a brass plate was installed on the summit with arrows pointing out all the ranges and peaks on the horizon.
Kyle showed up to expand our conversation to backcountry skiing and then he and I descended together, chatting the whole way about mountain climbing. Along the way we had a nice view of the Skywalker Couloir, finally getting some sunlight.
We met quite a few day hikers and a handful of backpackers on the way back to the cars. Besides talking to a few, we mostly carried on our own conversation and enjoyed the views.
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