Apache Peak

After climbing North Arapaho Peak last month, I knew I’d soon be back to the Indian Peaks Wilderness. I decided to squeeze another snow climb into an already long snow season and attempt the long Fair Glacier/Queens Way loop on Apache Peak.

Guidebook author Gerry Roach had this recommendation before attempting this loop: “get in shape, leave early.” Since I’ve never meet Gerry, I could safely cuss him when my alarm went off at 2:20am. After some slow and winding roads, I departed from the Long Lake trailhead at 4:10a. I shouldn’t have stopped to read the cougar sighting postings at the kiosk before hiking alone and in the dark up the trail.

When I heard a crashing through the brush to my right and swore I saw a pair of eyes reflected from my headlamp I thought about getting out my ice axe a little early. Instead, I pushed quicker up the trail and felt better as the sky grew lighter and I hiked above tree line.

I reached Pawnee Pass around 5:30-5:34 and then faced a demoralizing drop down below 10,000 feet before I’d start gaining on Apache Peak again.

Thankfully, the scenery was gorgeous the whole way down from Pawnee Pass and past Pawnee Lake.

Just before reaching the Crater Lake trail, I had a view of the Fair Glacier and Lone Eagle Peak.

I saw a few campers as I passed by Mirror Lake and Crater Lake, but no one was out and about yet.

From Crater Lake I found the climbers trail that leads up to a grassy saddle below Lone Eagle Peak and then followed it around just below the cliffs. The grassy slope was host to a riot of wildflowers in bloom.

I traversed past the Solo Flight route on Lone Eagle Peak and had a great view of the Fair Glacier.

After working my way around some cliffs and the loose rocks I made it onto the glacier where I finally broke out my ice axe and crampons. Around 8:40a I started hiking up the glacier and passed a few large blocks that had slid down from the cliffs above. I hoped those had fallen much later in the day when the sun had warmed the rocks.

I took a path that initially ascended to the right of all the rock fall. Once I was above an obvious cliff on the left that was shedding rocks, I hustled left across the tracks to minimize my exposure. Thankfully, while I was on the route, I never heard or saw any rock fall.

Sometime after 9am I reached the top of the glacier and had a wonderful view south to North Arapaho Peak.

From this saddle, the route description said to follow a gully of loose rock on the north of the ridge. The gully was snow filled, so I started kicking steps and traversing across.

In the middle of the gully a huge snow arete had formed, which I climbed up, then straddled and started kicking steps back down the other side.

Eventually the snow gave way to the awful loose rock and I slowly picked my way toward the top, trying not to knock any large rocks loose.

Right at 10am I reached the summit. With no register or marker, I nearly convinced myself that nearby Navajo Peak was taller and was where I should be. Spending time with the map, compass and GPS convinced me that I was on the right summit. Navajo would have to wait for another day.

I’d been going for most of the day on energy gel packets and a couple bars. Now my stomach was rumbling and I fished out a satisfying bagel with cream cheese to celebrate with. Luckily, I had just enough water left to wash it down. I hoped to descend the Queen’s Way couloir quickly and find some fresh snow melt to replenish my stock.

The entry to the top of the Queen’s Way couloir was easy enough to find, once I worked through a few hundred feet of loose rock (notice a theme?). I started plunge steeping down the couloir, then boot skied a couple hundred feet and then sat down and butt tobogganed the rest of the way.

Shortly I found a stream and enjoyed the cold water before continuing downward and looking for the Isabelle Glacier trail.

I hadn’t seen anyone all day, but as soon as I hit the trail I noticed a couple relaxing at the unnamed lake below the glacier.

For the rest of the hike out I kept a tally of the people I saw. Between taking a trail census, I admired the views back up the valley toward Navajo and Apache.

Lake Isabelle was also pretty.

I got a kick out of the people in the crowds who noticed my “Lord of Pain” shirt and would either stare, or discuss it with their hiking partners when they thought they were out of ear shot. Since today’s hike was over 6,000 feet of gain, I felt justified wearing it for that reason alone. Getting up a little after 2am was an even better justification.

By the time I reached the trailhead I had counted just under 100 people. The 15 mile loop had taken me just over 8 hours. Definitely not a speed record.

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