John, Renata, Pete and I made plans over a month ago to spend this weekend backpacking into the Gore Range via Piney Creek to attempt Mount Powell and Peak C. Saturday morning found us enjoying a beautiful day at the Piney River Ranch and setting off on a trail that pointed right at our objectives.
It was clearly spring down here, with spring beauties and larkspur blooming.
At the cascades, three miles into the hike, we located the cairn marking the climber’s trail up to the basin below Peak C and Mount Powell and struggled to follow the best route as snow and blow downs hindered our route finding.
Too late I realized that the small creek I was avoiding was the trail (last time I was here was the drier month of August) and we splashed our way upwards.
Around 10,500 feet we decided to setup our camp. Given the forecast we opted not to camp up in the higher basin above treeline. Plus, I was pretty sure there would be plenty of snow up there still and this would be a more comfortable place. After camp was arranged we decided we had enough of a weather window to try for Mount Powell still today. Continuing to follow the climber’s trail we soon hit plenty of snow.
We followed some footsteps until they suddenly turned north once in the basin. We were know above the trees and our first objective of Kneeknocker Pass was quite visible.
A few wet slide paths and avalanche debris were visible on all aspects around the basin, but there was a clean path up to Kneeknocker Pass. Once we reached the top of the pass I noticed two climbers who had just done a round-about ascent of Mount Powell. Their footprints had been the tracks we’d followed early. I discussed the snow conditions with them and we all agreed we’d head up a slightly different route that would avoid cornices and most of the wet slide paths.
From the pass we dropped down the other side and our steps immediately produced some snow rollers that careened down the slope below. One hit a convex roll and released a small wet slide. Initially all this activity had me nervous, but I was heartened to note that all the sliding snow was only the top 1.5 inches of new snow that hadn’t bonded well with the dust layer underneath. The snow under the dust layer was well consolidated and firm when we kicked our steps in deep. Small wet slides like weren’t likely to be a danger by themselves, but had the potential to knock one of us over. Thankfully the basin below was free off terrain traps with a safe run out.
After talking over the conditions and discussing our route we moved forward, traversing below some cliffs and heading for the standard route on Mount Powell.
The more time we spent traversing these slopes the better I felt about the potential avalanche danger. However, I was more concerned about the weather. Clouds were definitely gathering but not quite yet building.
Both due to the weather and the soft snow, afternoon’s aren’t my favorite time to ascend snow routes on mountains. Still, patches of blue sky to our west held out the promise that we had just enough time to reach Powell’s summit.
With a late 3pm summit we didn’t linger on top longer than 5 minutes before turning around and plunge stepping back down the south gully. Clouds were definitely building now and I’d feel better once we were back over Kneeknocker Pass.
Even with the weather looking threatening, it was hard not to stop and notice Peak C’s impressive northeast face.
Soon we were traversing back to Kneeknocker Pass and I noticed two new wet slides had partly covered our earlier tracks. Like we’d anticipated, they had slides had only involved the new layer of snow and produced a small debris cone below.
At the pass we quickly took off our crampons and added shell pants to assist the sitting glissade that would rapidly drop us back into the basin. On the way down the weather finally broke and thunder boomed nearby. We were glad to shortly hit treeline and descend back to camp.
On and off rain keep us under a sheltering pine tree for the rest of the evening. Eventually the sun shone briefly on the cliffs across the valley and produced a rainbow.
Before turning in we discussed when to wake up and begin our attempt on Powell’s southern neighbor, Peak C.
Adam’s Mount Powell and Peak C photos
Pete’s Mount Powell and Peak C photos
