A day of regrouping after our Zion disappointments had Pete and I reformulating plans. Warm weather and sun in the forecast sent us to the South Platte area and Turkey Rocks in particular for some climbing on thankfully solid rock.
After locating the Turkey Rocks area and making the approach hike we quickly found the Turkey Perch formation and set at two of the easier routes here. “Honky Jam Ass Crack” was first up at 5.7.
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A little out of practice, I felt insecure jamming up the crack and had my feet slip a couple of times. I was feeling better by the top however and Pete followed to clean the route.
Honky’s next door neighbor, “Left-Handed Jew” was next. I laybacked the initial portion of the crack then jammed more straight-forwardly toward the crux roof. A layback, worked my feet up then a high reach and I was past the bulge. Again, Pete followed, getting in a good jamming rhythm.
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The other routes I was aware of here were rated 5.8 and above. I initially debated top-roping one of these climbs, then maybe leading it, but a surge of confidence sent me right up “Reefer Madness”. I moved quickly though the lower crux portion, and was pretty efficient at finding good rests to place gear. Even with its harder grade I felt more solid on this climb than the two prior. Pete struggled a bit with the initial crux, but eventually worked through and then dealt with the psychological crux – the final slabby moves.
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Pete’s hands were pretty beaten up after his fight with South Platte granite, so rather than trying any more routes we spent some time talking about gear placements and having Pete place and evaluate gear in the cracks at the base of the routes.
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Pete has plans to purchase a used climbing rack off a friend and to eventually start leading. So this practice will be instrumental in working him towards anchor building and mock-leads before his first real trad lead.
