Donnelly Canyon

I thought I was going rock climbing. But so far, I’ve been in a car and a Starbucks, and a car and a gas station, and a car and a Starbucks and a car.

Indian Creek. We’d been talking (and getting stoked) about this trip for months. A spring snow storm delayed our travel by a half day and we found it took 2 hours just to make it to Idaho Springs.

Conditions improved after that and blue skies were breaking through by the time the overloaded Subaru passed into Utah. We rattled up the rough road to the Bridger Jack camping area and took the first open spot. Cold wind cut through the kitchen as we made some roasted red pepper and grilled cheese sandwiches then hid back in the car to eat them.

I was up before sun hit to explore and take a few pictures after a cold (26F) night.

Jumping around to warm up in the sun I started preparing a breakfast of blueberry pancakes while Jeremy complained of getting the screaming barfies doing food prep. Jenn added some fried eggs with cheese and spinach to complete the meal.

Armed with all our cams and a double set of borrowed friends we drove over to Donnelly Canyon to see what we could attempt.

Chocolate Corner, a 5.9 thin-hands crack was open and was a route both Jeremy and Jenn had top-roped on a previous visit. Jenn had a “Indian Creek lead climbing” monkey to get off her back and after we taped up she racked up to free herself from that mental baggage.

Jenn quickly dispatched the monkey and could already tally up this trip as a success.

Besides South Six-shooter peak, I’d never climbed in Indian Creek, but after bouldering up the first 6 feet of Chocolate Corner and finding perfect hand jams, I was ready to lead my first 5.9. Unfortunately, I discovered the crack pinched down after that first 6 feet and I had to resort to some hang dogging to rest up and finish the route.

I also discovered that I’ve a bit to learn about properly taping my hands.

A friendly group climbing next to us offered their rope on Elephant Man which we each took a lap on.

Jeremy then had his turn at leading Chocolate Corner.

The same group put up a rope on Mr. Peanut and we each took a spin, figuring out how best to use the off-width crack to the right.

Finally, we attempted the harder Dos Hermanos with both Jenn and I giving up not 25 feet up the wall. Jeremy powered through with a bit of a belay assist and cleaned the route.

We made a not-so-quick trip into Moab for additional fuel and firewood then returned to camp for a much more pleasant and windless evening of pasta and a campfire.

Complete photo album