Independence Monument

Somewhere around when the full moon passed duties on to dawn, Ryan and I wake up and bump out of Rabbit Valley (watch that coffee!) and backtrack to Fruita and the east side of Colorado National Monument.

We’d scouted out the trailhead location the day before and are pleased to see we’re the first car here on a holiday weekend. We start up the Monument Canyon Trail for emerging views of Independence Monument.

After 45 minutes the tower looms directly above us.

Walking around to the north side we find the start of Otto’s Route (5.8+), the most popular line to the top of the tower and first “climbed” by John Otto in 1911.

Just after Colorado National Monument was officially designated, Otto chopped steps and drilled holes to insert iron pipes for handholds to craft a route to the top of the monument and fly a US flag. The pipes are gone (minus one exception) but the footsteps and drilled holes make this a reasonable ascent for someone of my abilities.

I start up the first long pitch, linking a 4th class section to a few of Otto’s steps and some modern bolts.

Ryan quickly follows and I turn my attention to the 2nd pitch, with a off-width bulge that I’ve brought a couple wide cams for.

A few drilled pockets keeps the climbing reasonable (5.7) and I figure out the sequence through the bulge and up to another set of anchors. Ryan regrets wearing shorts while fighting through this pitch.

The next short pitch is a 4th class slot that I have Ryan lead to Lunchbox Ledge.

Following I arrive to look up at the 5.8 “sport-like” pitch. The climbing turns out to feel much easier than 5.8, and I get in a few pieces of pro besides the pins as I climb to the next ledge.

Communication is getting harder as the wind has picked up well above the 15mph forecast. We’ve been in the shade all morning and I’m actually getting a little chilled. Once Ryan arrives he re-flakes the rope while I get psyched out by the overhanging finish at the end of the next pitch.

Leading up to the overhang is easy, but rapidly gets exposed. A few big handholds with sloping foot holds let me clip the 3 pins. Then I try to figure out the best way to tackle the final moves while not looking down and trying to discount the wind. I hang for two long and my fingers tire and result in my hanging from the rope and trying to shake out and get motivated for attempt number 2. I contemplate pulling on some of the draws, but ultimately climb up to the belay ledge in decent style thinking that was way harder than 5.8.

I put Ryan on belay and get situated while trying to stay warm.

Ryan rapidly climbs up to the crux then struggles to unclip the last draw which is held in tension by the rope’s travel out over the jutting roof. Wearing himself out because I didn’t put a longer sling on the last pin, I finally lower part of the rope to Ryan so he can clip it to his belay loop and put that strand on belay. Slowly letting out slack on the first line he eventually has enough play to free the draw and I pull the slack back in. Ryan flops on the ledge worn out from his exertions.

I apologize, then he belays me the final 8 feet to the summit where I wander over to sign the register.

After downclimbing back to the ledge, we reverse roles and Ryan gets to stand on top. After returning to the ledge we quickly want out of here so we can get out of the wind and warm up. A double rope rappel returns us to Lunchbox Ledge.

The ropes pull cleanly and we walk down the 4th class slot where we notice another party on the first pitch. Once we do a single rope rappel down the bulge pitch, we discover the party is a group of 6 with 3 new climbers (at least one in running shoes).

They’re plenty nice enough and after half their party is on the large ledge they let us rappel down their rope to the base.

Ryan and I pack up and talk to a few of the climbers awaiting their ascent then start back down the trail, quickly warming up as we leave Independence Monument behind.

Adam’s photo album
Ryan’s photo album

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