Following a complete rest day on Saturday, Piper and I met at the Eldo Market to carpool into the park. A handful of other climbers were gearing up in the parking lot and setting out for climbs, but as we hiked up along the West Ridge we didn’t see anyone else. Shirttail Peak was also devoid of people and it looked like we’d have the route Gambit to ourselves.
The first pitch is rated 5.5 and as a newer trad leader I offered it to Piper, she led up, a little nervous about Eldo’s reputation for loose rock.
The first pitch ended at a large ledge and tree that I arrived at after cleaning the pitch. The second pitch had the crux moves (5.8) with a few roof/budge features to pull around. Thankfully, I was feeling pretty solid after the recent climb of the Petit Grepon and had a lot of fun with the moves.
The next two pitches were rated 5.7 and 5.6 respectively, so I offered Piper her choice of leads. She decided to let me take the 3rd pitch which started out with an interesting stemming/slab move protected by a piton, then to a large ramp and a nice jamming hand traverse. However, the line then went straight up a crack filled with huge blocks. Umm, these are all stable aren’t they?
I probably took longer leading this 5.7 pitch than the harder 5.8. Testing every single hand and foot hold and looking for solid cracks for gear while trying not to think about the exposure so much. Back in April, Pete and I had climbed Shirttail Peak via the much easier (and far less classic) Mountaineer’s Route and had watched another group on Gambit. From a distance the route seemed pretty exposed, and the close-up view was confirming that.
Piper arrived at the belay a little emotional at the thought that she’d almost agreed to lead the third pitch. She’s a far better climber than I, but not so happy with loose or blocky terrain.
I tried to be a gentleman and offer to lead the last pitch to the top, but Piper quickly composed herself and set off above the belay.
These last two pitches and belay stances were in the sun and the day had certainly warmed up. However, it wasn’t uncomfortable as a mild breeze cooled us off and I took in the views towards the plains while on belay duty.
Once on the summit, Piper belayed off a tree and I climbed up to join her in “tagging” the highest summit boulder then resting in some shade.
Then we headed north along the ridge crest to the now familiar pair of rappels that would take us back to the base of the climb.
On the walk out I was surprised to see nobody along the entire West Ridge, making Eldo feel a bit like a ghost town today.
Dang, she’s got some muscles!
Those would be her Little Girl Guns.
:)
[...] Gambit [...]