Originally, I’d have been rock climbing w/ Pete today, but after spraining an ankle he was out. Gary, however, was interested in a trip to the flatirons, so we made the long approach from Chautauqua past the Third Flatiron and wandered around until we think we located the formation “Willy B”. Gary got us started with the first pitch.
He hadn’t trad climbed yet this year, so he turned over the sharp end to me for the rest of the pitches – never mind that my fingers had gone white in the wind and cool of the morning. At least it was pretty easy climbing. Due to rope-drag I stopped my pitch at a half rope-length just below the prominent left-facing dihedral.
By now the sun was out and I was warming up. Our third pitch went up the dihedral, then across the face to a ramp on the south side. Here, I was confused by the directions and climbed the slick ramp with downward-sloping holds way too high looking for a piton. I found the piton, but finding other solid gear was difficult and I didn’t trust the anchor I was trying to build behind hollow-sounding blocks.
After digging out the route description I decided I wanted to be lower, so had to downclimb and was getting seriously unnerved. Eventually, I reached the base of the ramp at the overhang and found a few solid cam placements and yelled “off-belay”.
Gary arrived at the belay and suddenly remembered he’d done this route before and hated it. Well, we’re committed now. Screwing my courage to the sticking place, I went up about halfway to my earlier highpoint and made a few committing crux moves to overcome the south-face and arrive on the lower angle east face. Typical flatirons slab climbing followed to the summit.
Gary managed the climb well, but said he couldn’t imagine leading that crux move. Pulling onto the summit we couldn’t help but notice the increased winds and clouds and a bit of moisture spitting down on us.
After completing the rappel down we hiked back to the base to gather our packs and realize that it was after 2pm already.
We hated to walk in this far for just one climb, and I suggested we have a look at Green Mountain Pinnacle, which Pete and I had done just a couple weeks before.
Thankfully, the sun seemed to be re-emerging, and it looked like we’d get a weather window to repeat the West Chimney route. This time I loaded up with a smaller rack of just the pieces I’d need and freed up the back of my harness for the rubbing that would soon begin.
Gary looked a little apprehensive about this one, but it certainly went smoother for me the second time around. I reached the anchors and put him on belay.
After getting over the initial, tight part of the chimney, he seemed to enjoy the climb.
While I belayed, I also admired the view back at Willy B and the route we’d done on that formation.
After joining me at the anchor, we rappelled and started the hike out.
Thats a really nice beta photo for Swing Time Adam. I wish it was around a few years ago… Dominic and I climbed all the way up that nasty ramp by mistake and ended up having to pull a crazy roof up there… at least it was well protected… Dominic fell over and over before pulling it off with a little A0ing.
Sarah, Thanks, glad you liked the beta photo. Gary thought the same, so I posted a copy on MountainProject where more people would find it. I wish I would have had the photo before climbing the route! I’m thinking if I ever go back (big IF) I’d try the 5.8 route that sounds a bit better protected through the crux. Congrats to you and Dominic for getting through the upper part of the ramp!