Winds were gusting 50+ mph on the Front Range when Gary and I drove into Eldo. The winds must have chased or scared off all the other climbers as the parking lots were nearly empty. I was hoping we’d be a bit out of the wind on the Lower Peanuts formation, especially compared to the West Ridge or Wind Tower.
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After hiking up to the Lower Peanuts crag, we identified the upper pitch of Star Wars, one of the best hand cracks in Eldo. Gary led the first pitch (5.5 or so) to the base of the crack and our communication had to occur between gusts. The second pitch was great climbing with good hand jams, but unfortunately short. Above the crack flared and leaned back with lots of holds on the arete to the left. Then a fun and well-protected overhang led to the ridge crest. Standing on the other side I was just out of the wind, but couldn’t hear Gary at all.
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While reeling in the slack as Gary climbed up I admired the view of the long West Ridge and Redgarden Walls across the valley.
After Gary arrived we scrambled and hiked back around to our packs, then decided I’d lead the Direct Start to Your Basic Layback (5.6, 50 feet) and Your Basic Layback (also 5.6, 50 feet). I linked the two pitches together and found the second half (Your Basic Layback) to be a lot of fun. I built and anchor in the bottom of the crack that formed the 5.8 route Cornered above.
Gary arrived and led Cornered to the rappel anchors above.
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Then I followed and cleaned the route and we made two rappels to arrive back at the base.
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The Journey Is Home 