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Posts Tagged ‘Great Zot’

Tara had asked to climb Rewritten (5.7) in Eldorado Canyon and since it’s both a great route and has a few pitches I hadn’t yet led I was more than willing. A reasonable start had us the first on the this popular classic on a Friday morning. For the third time, I found myself leading the Great Zot’s first pitch (5.8) to start off the ground at the Redgarden Wall. Tara pretty quickly followed, taking a different line through the small crux roof before reaching the belay stance.


The second pitch is easier and leads to a nice belay ledge, abet one already occupied by a Colorado Mountain School guide who was bringing a client up the Green Spur to this point. Given that we were on an easier route, Tara reached the belay first of the two followers and the guide graciously let me start up the third pitch ahead of them.

The third pitch is pretty easy, but also a chossy gully of loose rock. Careful climbing is required, especially when there are climbers below which is pretty much always. Tara tried to turn the dihedral climbing into some face moves, but soon found the route and joined me atop the pitch. By now a third party was climbing up from below and catching all of us.

After re-racking I quickly started the classic 4th pitch with its famous hand traverse followed by the steep finger crack. I wished I’d had my camera accessible for the shot looking back down at the crowds on pitch 3. By the time I’d reached the dead tree belay, the CMS guide decided to let the last group (climbing in aggressive “Euro-style”) pass and Tara was anxious about having them hot on her heels. So she let their leader start up, then followed some distance behind.

With two ropes on the pitch and two sets of gear she was going to have a more complex time following this pitch. Thankfully, the speedster’s leader kept out some penalty slack to keep his aggro partner from breathing down her neck. At least this belay ledge was pretty comfy and made a nice waiting spot while we let the hurried pair climb to the top.

To speed our own ascent a bit, I linked the last two pitches, continuing up from the exposed and fun Rebuffat’s Arete to the summit. Tara (who says she doesn’t like aretes [or dihedrals, slabs or cracks]) actually found this pitch enjoyable.

Below, I was surprised to see the CMS guide had taken the original finish to Rewritten, but Tara and I did our best to keep him entertained with our witty banter as she neared the summit.

On top we coiled the rope and started the scramble and walk north, getting lost (er, getting some extra hiking in) only briefly before finding the correct route down and back to the base.

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