Is this almost November? Sunny, no wind and upper 60’s in Eldorado Canyon. The stream crossing and hike up the West Ridge warm us up and I’m a bit surprised to find my first goal, The Unsaid (5.9-) open. I should probably warm up on something easier, but I can’t pass up the chance to lead this item on my tick list.
I think a while at the crux and find it hard to commit to the balance required until I slot in another nut and reduce any potential fall. Once at the anchors I hang out and watch the group next to us working on Washington Irving (5.6).
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Piper follows the route and takes the more direct line around the little roof (5.10b) – an easy choice when you’re on a top rope and no a variation I’ll have to try to lead someday.
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Once she reaches the top we rig the rope for the rappel and descend.
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Washington Irving is now free, and Piper’s up to do the lead.
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I had just done the route the week before, and didn’t need to repeat it, so she lowers off and cleans as she comes down.
Heading further up the hill we reach Sister Morphine (5.9-) and find a group just pulling their rope. Excellent timing, I jump on the lead and complete the pitch to let Piper clean the route. She takes a harder (and unprotected) face climb at the start, then works through the crux moves off the large block.
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Piper’s turn to lead something, so we put her on Dandi-Line (5.7+), her hardest lead of that grade in Eldo. She goes great and again cleans the route while lowering.
My luck is holding, and the nearby route Pony Express (first pitch 5.9) is just opening up and was another to-do of mine. I find the gear a little harder this time, as I try not to block any good holds with nuts or cams, but work through it and am really satisfied with the day’s climbing.
Piper follows and cleans the route then we head back down hill and out of Eldo.
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The Journey Is Home 