Hey Ranger!

Brad, Pete, Tara and I spent Veteran’s Day at Staunton State Park with a mixed bag of activities in mind. Tara took off for a trail run while Brad, Pete and I headed to Park View Dome for an easy multi-pitch route.

Hey Ranger! is a 3-pitch 5.5 route that most resembles a granite version of the 3rd Flatiron. Just my kind of climbing. While I’m still getting back into the proper head-space for leading, I decided to take the first pitch’s lead and felt pretty comfortable, despite the run-out first 30 feet.

Pete and Brad followed the pitch and while Pete racked up to lead pitch 2, Brad and I started to wonder where Tara was and Brad rapped down to hunt for her.

Pete did well on pitch 2, so I followed up and finished the route’s shorter and easier 3rd pitch to the summit where I built an anchor completely on chicken-heads.

We coiled the rope and took a short hike to find a rappel tree that lead to a descent gully between the Parkview and Ranch Hand Domes.

Tara showed up at the base of the climb and we soon found Brad waiting at a trail junction for us.

After all gathering up again, we hiked up to the Tan Corridor and Brad led Reef On It! a popular 5.10 sport route. Tara, Pete and myself each took a top-roped lap on the climb before calling it a day. It was my second trip to Staunton and I’ll have to come back just for a long trail run one of these days to explore more of the park.

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Climbing & Hiking in Moab

After the Moab Trail Half Marathon, Tara, Brad, Chris and I retired to Milt’s for lunch then repacked for an afternoon rock climbing at Maverick Buttress in Long Canyon.

Brad and Chris tag-teamed a lead up the 5.10 Saddle Sores while Tara and I top-roped after them.

Brad then lead up the neighboring route Texas Two Step and the rest of us top-roped the climb.

Then it was back to Moab where I realized why my climbing shoes had hurt so bad – I’d received a couple large blisters from the trail run earlier in the day.

The next morning Tara and I provided some support (mostly heckling) as Brad and Chris stuffed gear into dry bags and considered swimming across the Colorado River to access a short desert tower. After one aborted attempt without wetsuits, then another where swimming in a strong current proved a tough way to cross. We shuttled the wet climbers up river to a shallower spot.

This time they managed to wade all the way across the river below the Barney Rumble Tower which some interesting hiking, canyoneering and a little bonus pitch of rock climbing allowed them to access and climb.

Since they were now out of shouting range our job heckling was over and we drove on to the Fisher Towers for a beautiful hike.

Next time we come to Moab (for the 2014 Moab Trail Marathon?) we really need to make it at least a 4-day weekend.

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The Marmot Ate Your Baby

Staunton State Park is a recent addition to Colorado’s state park system and opened for (legal) climbing only last summer. With climbing limited around much of the northern Front Range due to last month’s flooding, Tara, Brad and I took a trip out 285 to check out the rock domes here.

Despite doing fairly well in an orienteering race the day before, I managed to get us started on the wrong trail and we got to do some bonus mileage on the way to Staunton Rocks. Armed with the free guidebook from Fixed Pin we found our way through the Tan Corridor and up to the Marmot Tower. The 5.5 trad route “Maybe the Marmot Ate Your Baby” was our warm-up goal. I took one look at the continuous crack system and felt a sudden desire to jump on the sharp end of the rope. I asked Brad for the rack and suited up much to Tara’s surprise.

Sure I over-protected the route, and fiddled in marginal gear from less-than-ideal stances, but I still felt pretty good for my first time leading in well over a year.

We played around on the neighboring routes: Baby Steps (5.9) and Shoes for Dessert (5.8+), with Brad leading Shoes and all of us top-roping Baby Steps.

The weather was clouding up so we started our hike out, but couldn’t resist stopping in the Tan Corridor where Brad led 80 Grit (5.10) and Tara and I top-roped the route.

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Shelf Road

The last few weeks have been busier with normal life stuff than I’d like and while I have been out hiking, running and raced an orienteering meet, the blog has certainly been quiet on those smaller events. However, Tara and I got out for a weekend trip to Shelf Road, a destination rock climbing area of sunny limestone southwest of Colorado Springs. A normal 2.5 hour drive was delayed by rush-hour traffic through Denver and the campgrounds were all full so we eventually punted and got a hotel room for the first night. Disappointing since I was looking forward to camping in the high desert more than anything.

Saturday morning we rendezvoused with two other car-loads at the Sand Bank area and hiked into the Contest Wall. I’ve barely climbed in the last year+, so getting up The Opportunist (5.9) felt significant and once on top I setup a second anchor and took myself out of the climbing rotation and became the trip photographer. Being on a separate anchor and rope I could move up and down and capture more professional-style photographs from above and avoid the all-too-common “butt shots”.

After our group climbed the two 5.9’s (The Opportunist and Enterprise), Brad tried leading Phase Dance (5.12b) and had a handhold break off sending on a fairly major (but ultimately safe) fall. I wish I hadn’t been rappelling off my anchor at the time and had a lens pointed at him.

We moved on to Regroovable (5.11b) and Lime And Punishment (5.11b/c), neither of which I climbed, but the first I ascended and took up an airy perch for more shots.

At the end of the day I did top-rope one more route and we found a dispersed camping site to enjoy sleeping out in the desert air.

A several hour rain setup at 2am and caused some loss of sleep. Lingering clouds and cold air in the morning sent us away from the cliffs of Shelf Road and back into Canon City for breakfast and a drive home.

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Forgotten, Fat & Slow

Five months since I last rock climbed I agree to head to the Flatirons with Pete. During the drought of climbing I kept saying I’d be back on rock eventually and figured that “eventually” might start with a climb of the Fatiron. Two years ago we did this same climb and had a blast, this year I got us lost on the approach and we scrambled a few hundred feet on the “Forgotten Flatiron” before figuring out where we weren’t.

Having at least obtained a higher vantage point, and gotten a warm-up, we hiked back down and south to the Fatiron and easily scrambled up the north-side approach to the start of the route. I remembered the first pitch as being the crux (a thin crack with enough, if not plentiful, protection) and set off on lead with some trepidation. Slower and less confident than 2 years ago, I still got up and ran out most of the rope to an cramped belay stance that owed it’s minor “ledge” attribute to a dying bush. Pete followed with much more vigor than I’d displayed (has he been climbing in the gym these last few weeks?) and joined me on the bush.

Relieved to have the “crux” done I still found my climbing was tenuous and unconfident as I tackled pitch two. That the wind was picking up did little for my nerves and I belayed at a good sized ledge to make up for the bushy stance I’d previously parked out on.

Once again Pete cruised up the pitch and handed me the rack of gear I’d placed. I recalled pitch 3 being runout, but easy with a sea of jugs. Unfortunately, I headed too far left – up a water-polished mini-gully with harder moves and little pro. I was shaken by the time I reached the summit. At least the wind seemed more mild on top and the sun did something to restore my spirits while Pete climbed up to this eastern summit. Lunch helped even more, but I was considering bailing on the last of the climb.

After a short scramble and rappel, I was wavering in my commitment to bail. Looking up at the last two pitches to the western summit I was still having trouble summoning the psyche to continue leading and somehow talked Pete into doing his first trad lead. For better or worse, Pete set off with the rack and tackled the less-protectable-than-I-recalled pitch with more poise than I was likely to muster today. Fiddling with cams in odd spots he set a few good pieces and several less-than-ideal. I climbed up to his tree belay, helped reduce the cluster of his anchor then figured I should lead the last pitch – a pitch that turned out to be really short, really easy and easily protectable. Humm, maybe this should have been Pete’s first trad lead.

One last rappel, then some bushwhacking around the north side of the formation and a hike back towards the Shadow Canyon cutoff trail and we were out of the shadow of the Fatiron. When I got home I stuffed my climbing gear back in a box where it should stay until I’ve really got my motivation back.

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Aiguille de la Gilière

The omens just kept coming. First it was the train we missed by a scant minutes, then our expired tram passes. Maybe being out for just a simple day had our guard down, but the route we started climbing didn’t match the guidebook description and we didn’t know where we were.

Well, we could see the Index chair lift, and could easily bail to it. So what if the climb wasn’t what we were looking for, the climbing itself seemed reasonable and my pitch two connected with a line of bolts that was obviously on some route.

Some friendly climbers on a neighboring route told me the name of their climb, that still didn’t help me figure out where we were (turns out we were climbing the wrong part of the Gilière). Our makeshift route (portions of Mani pulite and Nez rouge – I think) was quite fun and not knowing what was coming kept the adventure high.

Not knowing when we’d hit the walk-off, I “led” a class 2, grass hike for my final pitch. All part of the adventure. Feeling like it was time to listen to all the omens, but it still being too early to call it a day, we hiked to the base of the Index (a formation we were at least familiar with) and repeated the first two pitches of Voie Brunat-Perroux, reversing the order we’d previously led them.

Complete photo album

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La Somone

After taking the two-stage cable car to the top of the Brévent, Jeremy and I were just left with a downward hike to reach our route, La somone, the perfect active-rest day route. High clouds loomed over all we could see, but still left decent views.

Approaching our route we flushed another chamois who traversed right across our future pitch one before disappearing over the ridge.

After the wildlife played through, we got the base of the route and racked up (just draws) and Jeremy took the first pitch. I kept one eye on the clouds across the valley that seemed to be lowering over the summits.

Jeremy’s first pitch was a little broken up and not much to write home about. Then we had a short downclimb and walk to the base of the next section which looked decidedly more interesting to me.

This pitch followed a crack in a dihedral and actually involved some jamming. I was happy even if I was clipping bolts. Unfortunately, we got a few sprinkles as Jeremy followed the pitch.

Jeremy set off on pitch three and ended up linking it (just barely with our 60 meter rope) to pitch four. Pitch four was the crux of the route (about 5.9) and by linking the pitches Jeremy didn’t get stuck with just another so-so pitch.

After following the combined pitches, we did a very short rappel off the mini-spire we now inhabited.

Another short hike got us to the base of our pitch four. The clouds didn’t look any more threatening, the pitch was short and it had ceased to sprinkle. Game on.

We ended up at the top of a rounded cliff with an easy walk off the back. The route still had two more pitches, separated from us by yet another hike and we seemed to have the weather for it. Post-walk, Jeremy got ready for his last lead.

I again kept an eye on the clouds, as they concealed and revealed the Dru and other summits.

One more easy pitch deposited us just off the hiking path to the tram.

It was windier now that we were on the crest of the ridge, and we quickly packed up and picked up the next cable car down.

Another pan chocolat and Americano warmed us up back in Chamonix.

Complete photo album

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Aiguille de l’M

I was amazed when Jeremy and I scored the first spots in line for the Aiguille de Midi tram. Unlike most passengers, we got off at the mid-station and started our hike north towards the “M”, so named because that letter well describes how it looks from Chamonix.

We were quickly schooled by an older lady who knew all the shortcuts and kept ahead of us (she was a pretty fast walker too), but we finally overtook her in time to scare up a herd of Chamois.

Shortly thereafter we found the climbers access trail that ascended straight up a gully towards the Aiguille de I’M.

A little under four hours after leaving the tram we were gearing up for our climb.

The start of the route was still in the shade and Jeremy offered me the lead on the first pitch. The advantage was that I’d get into the sun quicker and not stand around chilling off any more, however, I’d also have to lead the pitch with numbing fingers.

After one balancey slab move, the pitch got easier and I was extremely thankful to hit the sun for my belay stance. Jeremy followed and also looked happy to reach the light.

Switching leads he took the next pitch up through some more delicate moves then easier slab and on to a huge belay ledge.

I was psyched when I saw pitch three and what looked like a great crack/corner system. It turned out to have a few finger jams low down, then solid off-width climbing.

After following, Jeremy took us up one more shaded pitch and back into the sun.

A speedy group had caught us and we hung out in the sun for a bit while they worked on the next pitch. When their leader (who basically hiked up the 3rd pitch in mountaineering boots) slowed down a lot I probably should have taken the warning. I moved left and started a slightly easier variation to a ledge that rejoined their route just as their second was coming through. Giving him some space I followed him and found some delicate moves up thin cracks and not as many jugs as I’d hoped. Near the top I ran out of alpine draws and cannibalized some of my anchor webbing. About now I started thinking that the climbing would have been very enjoyable without the large pack holding crampons and an ice axe.

Jeremy followed, having to squint right into the sun then set off on our last pitch – a fairly easy traverse with decent opportunities for natural anchors.

At the summit we took a brief break, then started the first of three rappels (the last was the longest at 30 meters) each broken up with a bit of scrambling.

After packing up our harnesses and ropes, we started carefully making our way down a rubble-filled gully. Thankfully we could keep to one side and out of the main fall path most of the time. Also, we were well ahead of other groups descending behind us.

The bottom of the fully terminated in cliffs, but cairns and a trail led us to a section of metal rails, steps and ladders.

A lot of loose scree and talus over melting glacier and unstable moraines greeted us next as we traversed our way around the south side of the “M” and eventually back to a climbers trail below the peak.

We picked up a second path heading in the direction of Montevers (where the train to the Mer du Glace runs) and intersected the main trail which warned that it was a hour and 10 minutes to Montevers! It was now 4:45p and the last train ran at 5:30p. We started hurrying (as much as possible with all the gear we were hauling) expecting we’d be hiking all the way back to Chamonix. 20 minutes later we arrived at Montevers just as the penultimate train was departing. That “hour and 10 minutes” must have been in metric.

Feel a little worn out from our first-tram to last-train day, we shuffled a few blocks to the Micro Brasserie de Chamonix for more of their excellent stout.

Complete photo album

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Tike Saab

With low clouds and Chamonix still soaked from Sunday, Jeremy and I traveled with guide Adam George through the Mont Blanc tunnel and into Italy. After a stop for the best gas station coffee I’ve ever had, we found the parking area for Corma di Machaby and started to hike up through the woods.

Our goal was the Il Paretone wall with dozens of multipitch sport routes.

The routes were all well signed with information on their length, number of pitches and difficulty.

Adam led us off as Jeremy belayed and I snapped photos.

Once Adam reached the pitch’s anchors, he’d belay Jeremy and I up and we’d repeat the pattern.

The Italian side hadn’t escaped yesterday’s rain even if the sun was out now. A major wet streak had us rerouting mid-pitch towards drier rock.

Coming here had been a good choice, it was both a way to salvage a climbing day and a chance for me to visit another country (even if only for a half day).

Still, the type of climbing (slab! sport!) certainly ranks low in my preferences and I had pretty made made up my mind to “French free” (pull on quickdraws) through the crux before even leaving the belay for that pitch.

The upper pitches were easier and I didn’t need to resort to such tactics again.

From the summit we followed a pretty well marked trail back down through forest, past some old homes and down rock outcrops with mini via ferratas.

Before crossing back into France, we stopped in the lovely town of Courmayeur for gelato, a brief stroll and some beer.

Complete photo album

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Aiguille de I’Index

After a train, a cable car (la Flégère) and a ski lift I was ready to start climbing. We still had a short hike to the base of the Aiguille de I’Index, but somehow managed to beat out multiple other parties to get on the route Voie Brunat-Perroux first.

Jeremy led the first pitch (one of the 5b crux pitches).

I drew the much easier second pitch which ended just below the long grassy ledge splitting the east face of the Index.

After a short hike up and a consultation with the guide book, Jeremy led us up pitch three. I got the next even-numbered pitch as multiple groups started to converge on the grassy ledge. We felt some pressure to move up rapidly and not delay so many groups.

Besides drawing all the even pitches on this route, I also somehow ended up with all the pitches having a bolted crack. I couldn’t complain too much in this instance, as we’d only brought a set of stoppers and no cams.

For our sixth pitch I ended up merging with the much easier (and extremely popular) SE Arete. Finding myself behind a guided group with a slow client I belayed in the first semi-reasonable spot. By now the Index was reminding me of the First Flatiron: short approach, easy climbing, but multiple routes all combining at one narrow ridge and a rappel.

Jeremy’s final mini-pitch took us to the summit and then a short downclimb to some rappel anchors.

With only a 60 meter rope, we found we had a bit of scrambling to do after the rappel and then the loose rock gully to hike down.

We hiked partway back down to the ski lifts then snacked (American style peanut butter and jelly sandwiches – yes we had to bring the PB with us from the states). Refueled we decided that the crowds had largely done their route and departed so we decided to do the SE Arete since it was mellow and we just barely had the rack for it (a set of stoppers and alpine draws is plenty if you’re comfortable with the grade).

This time I took the first pitch which was well protected with a few bolts and pitons. No need for the nuts at all.

Jeremy took the second pitch and actually used a few pieces of our light trad rack.

For the third pitch I stayed at or near the ridge crest most of the way and found reasonable climbing, but it appeared like most groups traversed just below some of the steeper climbing. I reached a level stance and a bolt plus two pitons but liked the look of the more vertical section just above so I decided to link these two pitches. Jeremy quickly followed my “enduro” pitch and set off for the summit again.

By the time I reached him for the descent, we were feeling a few sprinkles and got into a cluster at the rap anchors with 4 total groups coming and going. Everything sorted out with a few shared words and some hand gestures, we were soon on our way back down the lift and the sprinkles had ceased.

Unfortunately, we saw a train pass as we were still on the la Flégère cable car and had an hour wait for the next pass.

Debating weather to sit and wait or start walking we came up with a third option involving a nearby restaurant.

Shortly after getting back to our Chamonix apartment, the rain started in earnest.

Complete photo album

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